FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions About Using Our Products

Wrought Iron

Rust is the result of a reaction, typically occurring in particularly humid environments, between iron molecules and oxygen molecules from the air and other natural components. If not removed, rust can lead to progressive deterioration of the iron, eventually resulting in the complete breakdown of the item in extreme cases of neglect. Rust appears with a reddish color.

The likelihood of rust formation increases in environments where certain phenomena occur, such as acid rain caused by pollutants that lower the natural pH of rainwater, saline fog produced near coastal areas, or corrosive gases from industrial zones. Additionally, possible current leaks caused by automatic door motors should also be considered.

To prevent rust from appearing on hardware, follow these simple rules:

  • Avoid contact with water.
  • If the surface comes into contact with water, dry it as soon as possible.
  • Do not create scratches on the surface, as these cracks can become reservoirs for contaminants.
  • For movable parts (e.g., hinges, bolts, iron handles, etc.), lubricate them periodically, preferably with a water-repellent grease. Lack of lubrication can create friction, making the iron vulnerable to corrosive agents.

First, assess the extent of the rust damage, paying special attention to critical areas: edges, joints, weld points, and areas where ornamental
elements meet, as these are where water may accumulate most easily.

Sometimes, if the rust is only superficial on smooth surfaces, a thorough wipe with a dry cloth may be sufficient.
In other cases, more specific intervention is required, using protective gear for hands (gloves) and eyes (goggles), and depending on the
severity of the damage:

  • Sandpaper
  • Wire brush
  • Rotary brush (specific accessory for drills)

For more severe cases, sandblasting is used. This industrial operation involves a jet of sand propelled by compressed air that removes the metal’s surface layer and is performed in sealed rooms.

The most practical method to prevent rust on hardware is to isolate the metal from agents that can cause oxidation. The simplest and easiest
way is to cover clean iron with a layer of anti-rust paint. This can be applied using a spray can, brush, air compressor with a spray gun, or roller.

A very effective way to remove residual rust stains left after cleaning and prevent their formation is by using a rust converter. These are now available in different colors and are usually based on synthetic resins dispersed in water, making them low in toxicity and suitable for use in poorly ventilated areas. These resins chemically react with rust, neutralizing it. The choice of technique depends on the surface being treated.

The most effective and durable solution is applying a very thin layer of stainless metal, such as zinc. However, this operation is recommended for larger objects, as it must be performed on an industrial scale by specialized companies equipped with large tanks where the object is dipped in molten zinc.

If you want to avoid using synthetic products to clean the iron we can provide some advice:

  • it may be sufficient, for a delicate cleaning of the Wrought Iron, to dilute neutral soap or dish soap in a bucket full of water (proportion 15 ml per liter of water) avoiding the use of products containing chlorine.
    or you can use white wine vinegar, instead of soaps (proportion: one glass per 2 liters of water).
  • Using a sponge or a cloth, pass over the entire surface to be cleaned, until the dirt is completely removed. With another cloth rinse with clean water. Finally dry very carefully eliminating any trace of humidity.

The frequency of maintaining an iron item should depend on the type of finish and its location: indoor or outdoor.

For indoor use, if the iron is raw and not painted (which is not recommended for outdoor use), maintenance should be regular, at least
weekly.

If the iron is painted, it is sufficient to remove dust and anything that could cause rust on a monthly basis

To determine the “ideal” type of finish for iron, it is essential to consider the final use of the product, its location, and its function.

For indoor use, particularly for frequently used items like handrails, raw iron can be maintained with regular cleaning. If you want to provide some protection while preserving the raw iron’s charm, it is advisable (and recommended) to apply a beeswax finish. This provides a natural effect while preventing rust formation. Maintenance in this case may be needed once or twice a year, with touch-ups of the wax layer.
Another durable solution is applying a clear matte varnish.

For outdoor use, it is recommended that, before choosing the type of finish, the item undergoes a corrosion protection treatment. This involves applying an anti-corrosion layer, either a rust-inhibiting paint or rust converter. After this, the item can be painted (at least two coats) in the colors and shades that suit individual preferences. Various painting techniques exist: brush or roller application, spray painting with a compressor-connected gun, or powder coating. In industrial settings, powder coating is an option where the paint, reduced to very fine sand, adheres to the iron using electrostatic forces. The piece is then heated to a temperature above 120°C to cure the resins contained in the paint particles.

You can use common types of brushes available on the market, carefully selecting the appropriate one based on the type of item to be painted. The following brushes are typically used:

  • Round Brush: Ideal for painting irregular parts (friezes, flowers, leaves, etc.)
  • Flat Brush: Suitable for painting fairly large surfaces
  • Angle Brush: Useful for painting hard-to-reach areas
  • Small Brush: Best for touch-ups or special effects

The only method for assembling iron to create any item, from a simple piece of furniture to a fence, is through welding. However, before starting any welding operation, which must be carried out in a well-ventilated area to disperse the toxic gases and fumes resulting from the process, it is essential to ensure that all safety precautions are taken:

  • Wear a fire-resistant and chip-proof apron
  • Use insulating gloves
  • Wear a welding mask (Caution! Do not weld without protecting your eyes with a mask; the ultraviolet radiation from welding can damage your vision)
  • Use insulating footwear
  • Wear clear safety glasses for finishing stages

There are two types of welding: continuous wire welding and electrode welding. Before starting, ensure that the pieces to be joined are clean from rust, grease, sand, or other impurities.
Welding reaches temperatures of up to 3000° / 3500° C. These high temperatures melt the base metal of the two pieces, creating a small cavity where the molten metal from the wire or electrode is placed, thus forming a single body.

The progress of the welding should be smooth and even along the entire length of the weld. On flat surfaces, the progress is more or less zig-zag, depending on the needs. Once the welding phase is completed, it is necessary to move on to the grinding phase to remove any excess material deposited by the operation.

To renew a handrail, fence, or gate that is already installed, you can find elements such as scrolls, spears, etc., on the market that can be integrated into the existing hardware. These elements can be applied with a simple weld or using the appropriate amount of two-component metal adhesive. See the following example.

Stainless Steel

When designing the interior and exterior spaces of the home, it is necessary to pay careful attention to design, colours, but above all the choice of materials that will make up the parapets and railings of stairs and terraces, both interior and exterior. It is therefore necessary to best define what the needs and requirements are, both personal and those of the surrounding spaces.
It is therefore advisable to have a clear idea of how to choose the right material for railings and parapets so as to have the best performance and create a flow of continuity with the surrounding environments, and certainly one of these is steel, an eco-friendly, stainless and 100% recyclable material.

Stainless steel is a material that is increasingly making its way into the interior and exterior of living and working spaces, the perfect, modern and contemporary solution for imparting style and design to all everyday environments. Until recently, its application was limited to the industrial world, especially the nautical and food sectors, as it was there that other materials failed and stainless steel, known instead for its technical characteristics of resistance and durability, was rewarded. Visiting homes or shopping centres we can see different types of steel railings, widely used for staircases and mezzanines or to complete elegant balustrades without sacrificing style and class.

This creates new environments with a minimalist taste and spaces that exploit the essentiality of this material to acquire prestige and good taste in a discreet and refined manner. One of the greatest advantages is the possibility of using steel railings also for outdoor use. Bright and silvery, they stand out for their mirrored colour and are able to create a pleasant flow of continuity between the various rooms without
ever losing their original appearance.

When treated to make it stainless, this material does not oxidise and is practical and easy to work with. Made from an alloy of iron and carbon, it creates a product that is resistant to high temperatures and corrosion and requires very little maintenance. In fact, all you need to clean the stainless steel railing is a damp cloth and a small amount of neutral detergent soap.

The design and aesthetic image of stainless steel railings is designed to respond promptly to the architectural needs and requirements of modern man. They can be an aid to staircases made of masonry or they can elegantly marry a parapet or balustrade for protection. Clean, simple and linear, the steel railing is the ideal item for tastefully conforming all the furnishings in the home, as it dialogues very well with
different styles.

The steel solution is easy and quick to install thanks to the different kits suitable for DIY, structured with tubular timbers that are simply joined together without the need for welding or special machining, tastefully adapting to any type of angle of the staircase or wall.

Technological evolution has allowed for the growth of new solutions and new materials, and has allowed the choice of railings for internal as well as external staircases to not only be an element of necessity, but to become an element of design, never trivial, to be chosen with the utmost care, placing design and safety in the right light.

AISI304 or AISI316 stainless steel is a material that is resistant to atmospheric agents, but it does require cleaning. In general, in outdoor applications it will be important to clean the surfaces as often as you clean windows and glass. More specifically: AISI304 and satin finish every 3-4 months depending on local conditions. AISI316 and satin finish, every 1-2 months.

In indoor applications for both AISI304 and AISI316, normal cleaning from dust or with specific products is sufficient. Washing with soap and water, rinsing thoroughly and drying carefully with a cloth are most of the time sufficient. (It is necessary to dry well to avoid stains caused by limescale in the water). Cleaning with specific degreasing products, non-acidic and non-abrasive, available on the market, is recommended at least once a year for the exterior and approximately every two years for the interior, however they should be used if rust spots appear.

The models on the market are designed with two different types of metal: AISI 304 and AISI 316. The question arises: which railing steel is most suitable for your home? In both cases, in fact, we are talking about first choice materials, with some differences that make one option or the other preferable depending on the use and positioning one intends to make of them. So let’s see, together with our experts, which railing steel is best for your needs between types 304 and 316

The differences between 304 and 316 steel railings Let’s start by saying that both types have the indispensable protection against atmospheric agents: a thin layer of chromium that defends the alloy and regenerates in contact with the oxygen in water and air. It is thanks to this very thin layer that all steel railing variants manage to remain perfect and shiny even several years after installation.

The acronym AISI used to designate the most common materials indicates precisely the specific property of the metal to be stainless, a condition that is particularly appreciated due to the lower maintenance required. Within this classification, the 304 and 316 variants are undoubtedly the most widely used. They are both formed from an alloy that includes, in addition to an 18% chromium component, a small percentage of nickel, usually around 8%. For this reason and because of their antioxidant capacity, the two metals are called austenitic.

Unlike AISI 304, 316 also contains a small amount of molybdenum, quantifiable between 2 and 3%. Due to the presence of this element, the structure has greater resistance to both air and water. This is why 316 structures are preferable in environments where weathering is more pronounced. This is for example the case in seaside locations, due to the high salt concentration present. For the same reason, it is the most suitable solution in locations subject to frequent night frost, and therefore interested in salt spreading. A 304 model, on the other hand, is appropriate for indoor locations and in any case environments with a low salt concentration.

The first very important element to take into account is the fixing, which can be Floor or lateral.
Choosing a steel railing with floor fixing is the most classic option, suitable for any type of environment. In this case, the post plate is fixed directly to the surface of the balcony or mezzanine. This is an extremely safe and versatile solution, suitable for all environments.
The lateral fixing gives the horizontal plate a very original appearance. The upright plate is in this case fixed to the vertical surface. This option makes it possible to optimise the usable space on the balcony, with a balustrade projecting outwards.

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